Welcome to the next five minutes of my life. I am sitting in a classroom in the University of Dschang. Even though it is down pouring, the skies above are blindingly bright. I can feel the sun warming my skin (the UV index is absurd Grace…) I’ve put in the headphones, put my iTunes on shuffle, and am going attempt to zone out for the next few minutes and pretend I’m not in Central Africa (this is going to be more difficult than I thought… a gigantic cockroach just scrambled into my backpack. Lovely.)
The past few weeks have been ridiculous? Crazy? Life changing? Scary? Fun? Mind blowing? Absurd? I don’t know if there is a proper adjective to describe it. I don’t really think I had any idea of what I was signing up for pre-Cameroon… I guess you could say it has been the ultimate immersion experience. Living with families has been ____( fill in the adjective from the list above here). I can’t imagine not living with a family in a foreign country now… I have learned so much about the ins and outs of day to day life in Cameroon- there is a huge surprise in each day and I love it. From the most basic of things (getting drinking water) to extremely intense things (the reality of death here), I’ve been exposed to it all. It has been incredibly difficult to comprehend all of these things, and my brain is on cultural and information overload. Have I really only been here for 4 weeks? I can’t imagine being anywhere else in the world right now (except for in my bath in good old West Chester once and awhile…).
This Thursday is my 21st birthday. What does that mean? At home, it’s a time to celebrate being “legal”… the start of one’s “adult” life. Here, it’s the time when it is getting a little late for marriage. The respected women in the village have had children by now. If I was the average Cameroonian, 5 years from now would mark the half way point in my life. In 2 weeks I will be heading to the extreme North (near Chad) and most of our host stay mothers will be younger than we are.
I’ve encountered things here so opposite from everything I know, that it has become hard to separate reality in the States to pre-conceived notions of “Africa” to the reality that is “Cameroon.” It is incredibly difficult to articulate my emotions to myself, let alone on this blog (I’m trying my best!). All I can be sure of is that the last month has been more eye opening than I could have imagined coming into this experience. In the past, I’ve heard people talk about how life changing a trip to Africa is, and I’ve always rolled my eyes in a way. I think I’m beginning to understand now (I think…). It is a truly different world, while at the same time, the very same world, which makes things incredibly complex. Every day has called into question the “big” questions of life. And while I feel very cliché blogging things like this, it is the truth. Being in Cameroon has made me stop. And reflect. For once. Really seek to understand the world as it is today.
Back to the 5 minutes of Laura… I’m drinking out of a bottle of “Tangui.” I’ve been conducting a research project on the availability and accessibility of water in Cameroon (both in the capital of Yaounde and more rural Dshang) and the results have been shocking. Just to have fresh drinking water here is incredibly expensive.
Wednesday, September 30, 2009
A Baptism of Fire
First time I heard this expression was from Mr. Tatios (an intense lacrosse coach) after he threw me into a game against those amazing CCLAX girls at a tournament at USTC. I was playing with the older girls (who I was totally in awe of) because they didnt have enough players. How different my life is now...That experience was definitely a lacrosse baptism of fire, but I had a true African religion baptism of fire this weekend...
Went to church in Foreke-Dschang (my family’s village) today. It was conducted primarily in Yemba (the language of the Foreke) with some parts in French, and one song in English. The church was packed- the choir wore matching cabbas and the kids sat in the front on the dirt floor. We arrived a little late, and my father preaches during the service in Yemba, so lucky me got escorted (solo) right up to the front by an altar server. I was placed right in the middle of the choir (who were absolutely amazing). They had 3 boys (all about 10 years old) playing the drums in the front. The woman on my left was the designated “shrieker” during the songs (who also ended up breast feeding in the middle of the service), and the man on my left was banging some sort of gourd instrument. Best 3 hour church service ever.
Couldn’t bring myself to refuse the bread and mayonnaise sandwich after church (I get the feeling mayo is a treat here…). Plastered on the bottle declares that it is "100% real American Mayonaise!" Hmmm...Im puzzled. Can something be 100% real if it is 100% fake?? Im actually starting to seriously enjoy the bread and mayo though... It has become some type of game for the Momo family to get me to eat as much as possible during each meal- they’re only satisfied if I keep up with my older brother Guilium (who also happens to be a body builder…). They remind me at each meal that want to “make you plus gross (fatter)!” I think my 40 minute walk to school is the only way Im not gaining the Dschang 15.
My dad took me on a little tour of the village the other night. We live in a compound with about 4 other families. He showed me the chiefdom, and the “secret forest” which lies behind it. In their traditional belief (Aministe), that people high up in society (chiefs, heads of households, notables, and Mafo’s – the mother of the chief who has special privileges) all have totem’s. A totem could be a snake, a lion, an elephant…something that is their animal counterpart that helps give them strength.
Went to the “centre climatique” today- it was created as a European vacation spot in the 1940s, but then World War II happened... Ended up giving 5 men swimming and diving lessons, and in turn they taught me some of their best Shakira moves (and it’s even on video… get excited).
The computer spazzed out and deleted about half my post from last time, so to clarify, AWFO= America Wins for Once. Basically the antonym for WAWA. Unfortunately not too many AWFO moments lately.
Tomorrow heading about an hour away to a more remote village to meet the chief. Crossing legs, shaking hands, and dirty shoes are strictly forbidden. Also just found out that we are supposed to let our clothes sit for 3 days after washing them or we might get some sort of bug our director explained as "a painful pimple that you can feel move under your skin." GREAT. Wish she hadnt forgotten to tell us that one...fortunately, I havent felt any mini bugs under my skin. Cross your fingers.
Went to church in Foreke-Dschang (my family’s village) today. It was conducted primarily in Yemba (the language of the Foreke) with some parts in French, and one song in English. The church was packed- the choir wore matching cabbas and the kids sat in the front on the dirt floor. We arrived a little late, and my father preaches during the service in Yemba, so lucky me got escorted (solo) right up to the front by an altar server. I was placed right in the middle of the choir (who were absolutely amazing). They had 3 boys (all about 10 years old) playing the drums in the front. The woman on my left was the designated “shrieker” during the songs (who also ended up breast feeding in the middle of the service), and the man on my left was banging some sort of gourd instrument. Best 3 hour church service ever.
Couldn’t bring myself to refuse the bread and mayonnaise sandwich after church (I get the feeling mayo is a treat here…). Plastered on the bottle declares that it is "100% real American Mayonaise!" Hmmm...Im puzzled. Can something be 100% real if it is 100% fake?? Im actually starting to seriously enjoy the bread and mayo though... It has become some type of game for the Momo family to get me to eat as much as possible during each meal- they’re only satisfied if I keep up with my older brother Guilium (who also happens to be a body builder…). They remind me at each meal that want to “make you plus gross (fatter)!” I think my 40 minute walk to school is the only way Im not gaining the Dschang 15.
My dad took me on a little tour of the village the other night. We live in a compound with about 4 other families. He showed me the chiefdom, and the “secret forest” which lies behind it. In their traditional belief (Aministe), that people high up in society (chiefs, heads of households, notables, and Mafo’s – the mother of the chief who has special privileges) all have totem’s. A totem could be a snake, a lion, an elephant…something that is their animal counterpart that helps give them strength.
Went to the “centre climatique” today- it was created as a European vacation spot in the 1940s, but then World War II happened... Ended up giving 5 men swimming and diving lessons, and in turn they taught me some of their best Shakira moves (and it’s even on video… get excited).
The computer spazzed out and deleted about half my post from last time, so to clarify, AWFO= America Wins for Once. Basically the antonym for WAWA. Unfortunately not too many AWFO moments lately.
Tomorrow heading about an hour away to a more remote village to meet the chief. Crossing legs, shaking hands, and dirty shoes are strictly forbidden. Also just found out that we are supposed to let our clothes sit for 3 days after washing them or we might get some sort of bug our director explained as "a painful pimple that you can feel move under your skin." GREAT. Wish she hadnt forgotten to tell us that one...fortunately, I havent felt any mini bugs under my skin. Cross your fingers.
Monday, September 28, 2009
Baptism of Fire
First time I heard this expression was from Mr. Tatios (one of the many intense lacrosse coaches of my past) after he threw me into a game against those amazing CCLAX girls at a tournament at USTC. I was playing with the older girls (who I was totally in awe of) because they didnt have enough players. So funny to think back on those experiences of tournaments and the pressure of organized sports now-my life is so incredibly different now (phew.)Anyway, that experience was definitely a lacrosse baptism of fire, but I had a true African religion baptism of fire this weekend...
Went to church in Foreke-Dschang (my family’s village) today. It was conducted primarily in Yemba (the language of the Foreke) with some parts in French, and one song in English. The church was packed- the choir wore matching cabbas and the kids sat in the front on the dirt floor. We arrived a little late, and my father preaches during the service in Yemba, so lucky me got escorted (solo) right up to the front by an altar server. I was placed right in the middle of the choir (who were absolutely amazing). They had 3 boys (all about 10 years old) playing the drums in the front. The woman on my left was the designated “shrieker” during the songs (who also ended up breast feeding in the middle of the service), and the man on my left was banging some sort of gourd instrument. Best 3 hour church service ever.
Couldn’t bring myself to refuse the bread and mayonnaise sandwich after church (I get the feeling mayo is a treat here…). Plastered on the bottle declares that it is "100% real American Mayonaise!" Hmmm...Im puzzled. Can something be 100% real if it is 100% fake?? Im actually starting to seriously enjoy the bread and mayo though... It has become some type of game for the Momo family to get me to eat as much as possible during each meal- they’re only satisfied if I keep up with my older brother Guilium (who also happens to be a body builder…). They remind me at each meal that want to “make you plus gross (fatter)!” I think my 40 minute walk to school is the only way Im not gaining the Dschang 15.
My dad took me on a little tour of the village the other night. We live in a compound with about 4 other families. He showed me the chiefdom, and the “secret forest” which lies behind it. In their traditional belief (Aministe), that people high up in society (chiefs, heads of households, notables, and Mafo’s – the mother of the chief who has special privileges) all have totem’s. A totem could be a snake, a lion, an elephant…something that is their animal counterpart that helps give them strength.
Went to the “centre climatique” today- it was created as a European vacation spot in the 1940s, but then World War II happened... Ended up giving 5 men swimming and diving lessons, and in turn they taught me some of their best Shakira moves (and it’s even on video… get excited).
The computer spazzed out and deleted about half my post from last time, so to clarify, AWFO= America Wins for Once. Basically the antonym for WAWA. Unfortunately not too many AWFO moments lately.
Tomorrow heading about an hour away to a more remote village to meet the chief. Crossing legs, shaking hands, and dirty shoes are strictly forbidden. Also just found out that we are supposed to let our clothes sit for 3 days after washing them or we might get some sort of bug our director explained as "a painful pimple that you can feel move under your skin." GREAT. Wish she hadnt forgotten to tell us that one...fortunately, I havent felt any mini bugs under my skin. Cross your fingers.
Went to church in Foreke-Dschang (my family’s village) today. It was conducted primarily in Yemba (the language of the Foreke) with some parts in French, and one song in English. The church was packed- the choir wore matching cabbas and the kids sat in the front on the dirt floor. We arrived a little late, and my father preaches during the service in Yemba, so lucky me got escorted (solo) right up to the front by an altar server. I was placed right in the middle of the choir (who were absolutely amazing). They had 3 boys (all about 10 years old) playing the drums in the front. The woman on my left was the designated “shrieker” during the songs (who also ended up breast feeding in the middle of the service), and the man on my left was banging some sort of gourd instrument. Best 3 hour church service ever.
Couldn’t bring myself to refuse the bread and mayonnaise sandwich after church (I get the feeling mayo is a treat here…). Plastered on the bottle declares that it is "100% real American Mayonaise!" Hmmm...Im puzzled. Can something be 100% real if it is 100% fake?? Im actually starting to seriously enjoy the bread and mayo though... It has become some type of game for the Momo family to get me to eat as much as possible during each meal- they’re only satisfied if I keep up with my older brother Guilium (who also happens to be a body builder…). They remind me at each meal that want to “make you plus gross (fatter)!” I think my 40 minute walk to school is the only way Im not gaining the Dschang 15.
My dad took me on a little tour of the village the other night. We live in a compound with about 4 other families. He showed me the chiefdom, and the “secret forest” which lies behind it. In their traditional belief (Aministe), that people high up in society (chiefs, heads of households, notables, and Mafo’s – the mother of the chief who has special privileges) all have totem’s. A totem could be a snake, a lion, an elephant…something that is their animal counterpart that helps give them strength.
Went to the “centre climatique” today- it was created as a European vacation spot in the 1940s, but then World War II happened... Ended up giving 5 men swimming and diving lessons, and in turn they taught me some of their best Shakira moves (and it’s even on video… get excited).
The computer spazzed out and deleted about half my post from last time, so to clarify, AWFO= America Wins for Once. Basically the antonym for WAWA. Unfortunately not too many AWFO moments lately.
Tomorrow heading about an hour away to a more remote village to meet the chief. Crossing legs, shaking hands, and dirty shoes are strictly forbidden. Also just found out that we are supposed to let our clothes sit for 3 days after washing them or we might get some sort of bug our director explained as "a painful pimple that you can feel move under your skin." GREAT. Wish she hadnt forgotten to tell us that one...fortunately, I havent felt any mini bugs under my skin. Cross your fingers.
Tuesday, September 22, 2009
I had a hot shower on Saturday.
AWFO
Drove about 7 hours to Dschang on Saturday. Went to my first “boite” and was informed I dance like a Cameroonian (the greatest compliment ever). Unfortunately, I’m pretty sure the guy just wanted me to break up with my faux-fiancé. Zut.
Moved in with our new host families on Sunday- my family is absolutely incredible- unbelievably warm, friendly, and fun. I have a dad, 2 older brothers (21 and 24) and a younger sister (16). There are 3 other kids living, working, and studying in Yaounde now. Everyone seems to love my dad (it is easy to see why)- people are always stopping in to chat or to eat and I love having such a busy house. My father is the head of the boy scouts in Dschang- he showed me his well worn guide book from the late 60s which very well could be sold in Urban Outfitters today. My favorite quote, “Ok fellows, now here’s a bit on how to avoid those dirty jokes…”
I had the crazy experience of being the first white person this little 2 year old girl has ever seen. She took one look at me, froze, freaked out, and ran back to her mom. It about 10 minutes until she found the courage to come touch the back of my leg when I wasn’t looking and run away.
Had my first motorcycle ride on the way to church and hummed the Top Gun song the whole way. Dschang is a total motorcycle town- the motortaxi drivers all line up on the sidewalk in their yellow vests. Went with my brother and his friend (who is 22 years old and the chief of the village). Next Sunday they are taking me to the service in their maternal language of Yemba. Had my first yemba lesson by candlelight last night after the power went out. Everyone got a kick out of my attempts- the sounds are ridiculous;. Found out my dads father (Momo Gregroire) was the one who created the alphabet in the 1940s which allowed the Foreke to communicate with other villages such as the Bafang who speak Nufi.
Dschang is absolutely beautiful- full of lush green foliage and bright red roads of dirt. It is the rainy season now, and when it rains, it pours. The steep dusty roads transform into rusty waterfalls and there is no leaving the house. We could barely hear each other at dinner tonight because the rain was pounding so hard on the tin roof.
Definitely a lot less modern than Yaoundé here- the bathroom/bathing situation is very interesting (we’ll leave it at that…), learned to cook over the fire today, etc. Funny hearing all the stories from the weekend from different students with …one friend is living in an apartment and in the bathroom there is a pig pen with 4 pigs. Another friend gave a puzzle as a homestay gift- apparently the family wouldn’t stop until they figured it out, tons of friends and neighbors came over, and when they finally finished there was a huge celebration. Another student was informed by his father that “there is really no need to talk to my wife” and was introduced to the father’s mistress (who gets along just fine with the wife). Monogomy just doesn’t happen here. Learned about the “2e bureau” today in French which is basically the subtle way to refer to a mistress. It is totally normal here-our French professors talked to us about it like it was no big deal at all.
Gave my host family their gifts last night- they went wild over the Michael Jackson CD (especially Hermann) and couldn’t believe how diverse the US is after looking at pictures. Also attemted to explain for about an hour how my dad is Italian and my mom German and a whole bunch of other things- the concept was incredibly foreign to them and they kept asking if I was American
Learned how to make cous cous(totally different from the stuff at home) outside over the fire- it is ground up corn that looks like flour, but into boiling water until it gets really thick (cooking cous cous is an all day affair). You then make it into balls (the boys were bragging at dinner about the amount they can finish) It is very plain- we ate it with legume and arachide sauce, but my brother informed me it is better with bat meat…
Drove about 7 hours to Dschang on Saturday. Went to my first “boite” and was informed I dance like a Cameroonian (the greatest compliment ever). Unfortunately, I’m pretty sure the guy just wanted me to break up with my faux-fiancé. Zut.
Moved in with our new host families on Sunday- my family is absolutely incredible- unbelievably warm, friendly, and fun. I have a dad, 2 older brothers (21 and 24) and a younger sister (16). There are 3 other kids living, working, and studying in Yaounde now. Everyone seems to love my dad (it is easy to see why)- people are always stopping in to chat or to eat and I love having such a busy house. My father is the head of the boy scouts in Dschang- he showed me his well worn guide book from the late 60s which very well could be sold in Urban Outfitters today. My favorite quote, “Ok fellows, now here’s a bit on how to avoid those dirty jokes…”
I had the crazy experience of being the first white person this little 2 year old girl has ever seen. She took one look at me, froze, freaked out, and ran back to her mom. It about 10 minutes until she found the courage to come touch the back of my leg when I wasn’t looking and run away.
Had my first motorcycle ride on the way to church and hummed the Top Gun song the whole way. Dschang is a total motorcycle town- the motortaxi drivers all line up on the sidewalk in their yellow vests. Went with my brother and his friend (who is 22 years old and the chief of the village). Next Sunday they are taking me to the service in their maternal language of Yemba. Had my first yemba lesson by candlelight last night after the power went out. Everyone got a kick out of my attempts- the sounds are ridiculous;. Found out my dads father (Momo Gregroire) was the one who created the alphabet in the 1940s which allowed the Foreke to communicate with other villages such as the Bafang who speak Nufi.
Dschang is absolutely beautiful- full of lush green foliage and bright red roads of dirt. It is the rainy season now, and when it rains, it pours. The steep dusty roads transform into rusty waterfalls and there is no leaving the house. We could barely hear each other at dinner tonight because the rain was pounding so hard on the tin roof.
Definitely a lot less modern than Yaoundé here- the bathroom/bathing situation is very interesting (we’ll leave it at that…), learned to cook over the fire today, etc. Funny hearing all the stories from the weekend from different students with …one friend is living in an apartment and in the bathroom there is a pig pen with 4 pigs. Another friend gave a puzzle as a homestay gift- apparently the family wouldn’t stop until they figured it out, tons of friends and neighbors came over, and when they finally finished there was a huge celebration. Another student was informed by his father that “there is really no need to talk to my wife” and was introduced to the father’s mistress (who gets along just fine with the wife). Monogomy just doesn’t happen here. Learned about the “2e bureau” today in French which is basically the subtle way to refer to a mistress. It is totally normal here-our French professors talked to us about it like it was no big deal at all.
Gave my host family their gifts last night- they went wild over the Michael Jackson CD (especially Hermann) and couldn’t believe how diverse the US is after looking at pictures. Also attemted to explain for about an hour how my dad is Italian and my mom German and a whole bunch of other things- the concept was incredibly foreign to them and they kept asking if I was American
Learned how to make cous cous(totally different from the stuff at home) outside over the fire- it is ground up corn that looks like flour, but into boiling water until it gets really thick (cooking cous cous is an all day affair). You then make it into balls (the boys were bragging at dinner about the amount they can finish) It is very plain- we ate it with legume and arachide sauce, but my brother informed me it is better with bat meat…
Thursday, September 17, 2009
LE BLANCHE
Woke up with my mom at 5:15- yes, I'm still attempting to get on her good side. Heated the water for the morning "bucket bathing", made breakfast of haricots and spices on baguette, cleaned and chopped up the vegetables for tonights dinner, and cleaned "le salon." For as modern of a family the Tchebe's are, the elements of their traditional culture are still present in their day to day lives. For example, the broom we use is one that mom makes from dried palm leaves (we sweep the carpet with it...no vaccum cleaners). I had about 5 more examples, but my entire post just got deleted (these computers are driving me crazy), so I'm moving on. Vite Vite!
After class today, decided we would brave the heat and the intmidating Mokolo market again (one of the largest in Central Africa). Everywhere you go throughout the market, people are shouting "le blanche! le blanche!", some grabbing arms and attempting to pull us into their shop. The good thing here is that we were culturally informed it is totally inappropriate to touch a woman in public, so we can reply with some sass "ne touche pas!" and not sound rude. It's unbelievably liberating. Also, I've discovered from the blunt conversations with many Cameroonians that there is very little need to be politically correct. People say what they mean, and it is so refreshing.
Had another proposal (not quite as romantic as the dirty taxi...but pretty close) with a man attempting to sell me a Lions jersey. At least this time he was sitting and I was standing...close to getting on his knee? Anyway, it happened in the sidewalk while I was being crashed into by the massive amounts of shoppers in about 90 degree dry heat...magical.
Ended up Went to a boulangerie to buy a cake for tomorrow's celebration of the September birthdays. Heading to Dschang (more rural) Saturday for 2 weeks! Time to learn how to say "I'm not allowed to eat bush meat"
After class today, decided we would brave the heat and the intmidating Mokolo market again (one of the largest in Central Africa). Everywhere you go throughout the market, people are shouting "le blanche! le blanche!", some grabbing arms and attempting to pull us into their shop. The good thing here is that we were culturally informed it is totally inappropriate to touch a woman in public, so we can reply with some sass "ne touche pas!" and not sound rude. It's unbelievably liberating. Also, I've discovered from the blunt conversations with many Cameroonians that there is very little need to be politically correct. People say what they mean, and it is so refreshing.
Had another proposal (not quite as romantic as the dirty taxi...but pretty close) with a man attempting to sell me a Lions jersey. At least this time he was sitting and I was standing...close to getting on his knee? Anyway, it happened in the sidewalk while I was being crashed into by the massive amounts of shoppers in about 90 degree dry heat...magical.
Ended up Went to a boulangerie to buy a cake for tomorrow's celebration of the September birthdays. Heading to Dschang (more rural) Saturday for 2 weeks! Time to learn how to say "I'm not allowed to eat bush meat"
Wednesday, September 16, 2009
My Life In 30 Seconds
Hard to believe I have been here for less than 3 weeks. I’m starting to get used to the city, but nevertheless, I’m still on major sensory overload. Lets just say the cultural whiplash hasn’t stopped, but I’m loving it (for the most part…until, for example, a lizard runs over my foot, which just happened by the way. WAWA).
I’ve started to have moments where I am incredibly comfortable and then something little happens (such as the lizard incident, the ants in my pants…and in my shoes, and shirts, and food, the cockroach that ran across my chair at lunch today….)and I’m instantly snapped back into the reality that is Cameroon. For example, this weekend I had a totally normal conversation with my dad about the weekends events, the fantasy draft, family updates, US Open, yada yada over Skype. I walked out of the Cyber Café and BAM. Cultural Whiplash: here is a snippet of the very non-normal 30 seconds that ensued…
(Shout out to Mom’s 7th grade homeroom reading this blog, I’m going to use the 5 senses my 7th grade English teacher drilled into my head!)
SOUNDS: Across on one side of the street there is a drumming session going on, while on the other side, a spontaneous dance party has broken out around a large speaker system blasting Maino’s “All the Above.” Symbolic of the traditional vs. modernization clash we have been studying lots in school.
SMELLS: There are little food stands set up all down the sidewalks…. A woman is making the most amazing smelling beignets in a huge iron vat over coals.
SIGHT: I watch as a full taxi (4 people squeezed into the back, 1 person in the front) makes room for one more person, a well dressed middle aged man who plops down on the front seat with another larger man. Totally normal here. I’ve accepted that sitting in the front seat probably means I will end up sharing the seat, and most likely I’ll exit the car with the imprint of the clutch in my left leg. Public Transportation isn’t very available, most people take Taxi’s everywhere (typically a flat rate of 200 CFA= about 40 cents. It’s going to be hard to take a NYC cab after this…) I also observe a crippled boy crawling across the very busy street in the same set of dirty clothes he wears everyday. I see him at least 2 times a day, everyday, and it is such a reality check and leaves me with such a feeling of helplessness.
TOUCH (this is kind of a stretch….): It has to be about 90 degrees- it is sunny and bright out, but weirdly pouring rain. I see a rainbow pretty much everyday.
TASTE: I can’t resist, I pass 2 Boulangeries on the way home, and convince myself the price is just too good to pass up. 1 large beignet= 100 CFA= 20 cents. I don’t even think you can buy a stale Munchkin for that.
Learning about “Paludisme” or Malaria today… it is the number one killer in Cameroon (the life expectancy is 53 here). I am living in a wealthy neighborhood and have seen my fair share of Land Rover’s. Our teacher informed us that the price of 60 Land Rovers (about $180,000) could provide enough money for every one of the 18 million Cameroonian people to have a mosquito net. This would drastically reduce the death rate, as only female mosquitoes, and typically at night.
I’ve started to have moments where I am incredibly comfortable and then something little happens (such as the lizard incident, the ants in my pants…and in my shoes, and shirts, and food, the cockroach that ran across my chair at lunch today….)and I’m instantly snapped back into the reality that is Cameroon. For example, this weekend I had a totally normal conversation with my dad about the weekends events, the fantasy draft, family updates, US Open, yada yada over Skype. I walked out of the Cyber Café and BAM. Cultural Whiplash: here is a snippet of the very non-normal 30 seconds that ensued…
(Shout out to Mom’s 7th grade homeroom reading this blog, I’m going to use the 5 senses my 7th grade English teacher drilled into my head!)
SOUNDS: Across on one side of the street there is a drumming session going on, while on the other side, a spontaneous dance party has broken out around a large speaker system blasting Maino’s “All the Above.” Symbolic of the traditional vs. modernization clash we have been studying lots in school.
SMELLS: There are little food stands set up all down the sidewalks…. A woman is making the most amazing smelling beignets in a huge iron vat over coals.
SIGHT: I watch as a full taxi (4 people squeezed into the back, 1 person in the front) makes room for one more person, a well dressed middle aged man who plops down on the front seat with another larger man. Totally normal here. I’ve accepted that sitting in the front seat probably means I will end up sharing the seat, and most likely I’ll exit the car with the imprint of the clutch in my left leg. Public Transportation isn’t very available, most people take Taxi’s everywhere (typically a flat rate of 200 CFA= about 40 cents. It’s going to be hard to take a NYC cab after this…) I also observe a crippled boy crawling across the very busy street in the same set of dirty clothes he wears everyday. I see him at least 2 times a day, everyday, and it is such a reality check and leaves me with such a feeling of helplessness.
TOUCH (this is kind of a stretch….): It has to be about 90 degrees- it is sunny and bright out, but weirdly pouring rain. I see a rainbow pretty much everyday.
TASTE: I can’t resist, I pass 2 Boulangeries on the way home, and convince myself the price is just too good to pass up. 1 large beignet= 100 CFA= 20 cents. I don’t even think you can buy a stale Munchkin for that.
Learning about “Paludisme” or Malaria today… it is the number one killer in Cameroon (the life expectancy is 53 here). I am living in a wealthy neighborhood and have seen my fair share of Land Rover’s. Our teacher informed us that the price of 60 Land Rovers (about $180,000) could provide enough money for every one of the 18 million Cameroonian people to have a mosquito net. This would drastically reduce the death rate, as only female mosquitoes, and typically at night.
Monday, September 14, 2009
ALLEZ LES LIONS!
Some simple math (you got this Leezo): Eagles NFC Championship game x 20 = Approximate atmosphere of the Cameroon vs. Gabon football game. This is the way live sports are supposed to go down. I’ve always known Africans were crazy about their soccer, but looking back, I had no idea. Got there at 12:30 for a 3:30 start to avoid the brawls that occur both before and after the games (regardless of who wins…). The security was really intense and pretty scary- armed, loud, and intimidating guards everywhere.
Paid about 5,000 CFA for “front row” seats (the best $10 I’ve ever spent). Nobody actually sits in the first 15 rows (which has no overhang) to avoid the sudden bursts of rain, as well as the showers of debris thrown from the sections above.
The Cameroonians make up for the lack of a speaker system... and then some. Tons of people bring their own drums, buckets, and other random objects and create some pretty incredible music. These crazy drumming sessions are surrounded by fans singing and dancing (the Eagles Cheerleaders could definitely use a lesson or two from these women).
People are walking around with all types of snacks (carrying them on their heads, per usual. Even though I see this about 1,000 times a day, it still totally impresses me. Even the really little kids can do it…) My personal favorite were the plastic packets of Whiskey and Gin for 50 CFA. A little more simple math… 1 packet= 3 shots = 25 cents. Wondering when these packets are going to make it to the States (Epop, this could solve all of your double sock and flask problems).
Back to the atmosphere, I wish I could describe it better. The drums are the perfect compliment to the game being played. I never realized soccer was such a rhythmic sport until I watched it with a person whistling on one side of me and drumming on the other. The energy of the stadium is completely electrifying throughout the game. After the 2 goals, you couldn’t hear yourself scream if you wanted to.
In other news, had our first African dancing class followed by African drumming. French class the other day was a trip to one of the largest markets in Central Africa (Mokolo)… some of the most fun and interactive schooling I’ve ever had. (My school days are even rivaling 1st grade Polar Express day with the hot chocolate and PJs… never thought the day would come).
Paid about 5,000 CFA for “front row” seats (the best $10 I’ve ever spent). Nobody actually sits in the first 15 rows (which has no overhang) to avoid the sudden bursts of rain, as well as the showers of debris thrown from the sections above.
The Cameroonians make up for the lack of a speaker system... and then some. Tons of people bring their own drums, buckets, and other random objects and create some pretty incredible music. These crazy drumming sessions are surrounded by fans singing and dancing (the Eagles Cheerleaders could definitely use a lesson or two from these women).
People are walking around with all types of snacks (carrying them on their heads, per usual. Even though I see this about 1,000 times a day, it still totally impresses me. Even the really little kids can do it…) My personal favorite were the plastic packets of Whiskey and Gin for 50 CFA. A little more simple math… 1 packet= 3 shots = 25 cents. Wondering when these packets are going to make it to the States (Epop, this could solve all of your double sock and flask problems).
Back to the atmosphere, I wish I could describe it better. The drums are the perfect compliment to the game being played. I never realized soccer was such a rhythmic sport until I watched it with a person whistling on one side of me and drumming on the other. The energy of the stadium is completely electrifying throughout the game. After the 2 goals, you couldn’t hear yourself scream if you wanted to.
In other news, had our first African dancing class followed by African drumming. French class the other day was a trip to one of the largest markets in Central Africa (Mokolo)… some of the most fun and interactive schooling I’ve ever had. (My school days are even rivaling 1st grade Polar Express day with the hot chocolate and PJs… never thought the day would come).
Saturday, September 12, 2009
A Little Sass Goes A Long Way
Ive been uploading this image for the last 15 minutes... the post to explain this title will have to come later...it is 625 and I have a 630 curfew...no joke!
Thursday, September 10, 2009
GUNSHOT
Deep breaths mom. One of the funnier moments of my trip so far… I explained to one of our directors the concept of calling “Shot Gun” when going for the front seat. All of the students were in the parking lot waiting for Bobo to come out of the Cyber Café…when he finally emerged he yelled “GUNSHOT.”
W.A.W.A.= West Africa Wins Again
I’ve had quite a few WAWA moments the past couple of days… but in the interest of time, I’m going to offer you some random bits of information in
“My life in bullet points: Volume I”
-It is a sign of superiority to sit with your legs crossed in Cameroon, this has been a surprisingly difficult thing to stop doing
-had Viper for dinner the other night… really good!
-Went to a Presbyterian church service on Sunday, where the “children” (or those under the age of about 21) sit upstairs, and the adults sit downstairs. Lucky me got to stand up by myself in front of the entire congregation of about 500 people when they asked for first time visitors…
-if you invite someone here to do ANYTHING (go grab some food, go to the internet café, go to a soccer game, the movies, etc.) it is assumed that you will pay for both people
-learned that the best time to go to the market is during Cameroon soccer games…it is completely empty (and they are usually absurdly packed)
-on the subject of soccer, Cameroon beat Gabon on Saturday. I could hear from the kitchen every time Cameroon scored, the whole city erupts in noise.
-again, on soccer… we might be going to the Cameroon vs. Gabon game here on Wednesday, unless the US Embassy issues a warning, which they often do. In the words of my Academic Director, “If we lose, there will be a big fight. If we win, there will be a big fight.” Apparently, regardless of the outcome here, the men just brawl after the games.
-I’ve been proposed to 2 times so far. And let me tell you, the first proposal of my life was just how I imagined it, totally romantic…in a dirty cab with bright orange shag seating in Yaounde.. It is the total opposite of the US, the men LOVE to make the first move and be completely forward. The first guy was about 35, dressed very nicely, and promised to “take me to see movie, buy me nice things.’ Lets just say all the girls on the trip have learned how to say “I’m engaged” or “I’m already married.” I’ve been called out on being ring-less… that will be my first African jewelry purchase.
-Cameroonians are really into clean shoes. We have to wash them before going out
-showers here are FREEZING (Ms Doss you are the only one who will really understand…I’m talking Turkey cold here.). I’ve perfected the sub- 2 minute shower.
A little about my family…
I have a younger sister, Ornella, who is amazing and patient, and will be my saving grace during my time with the Tchebe family. She is 16 and amazing at the Soulja Boy dance. My mom does something with law… she is pretty intense. Spent all day Saturday learning how to cook traditional Cameroonian foods…I’ve eaten some pretty funky stuff but also some really amazing food!
W.A.W.A.= West Africa Wins Again
I’ve had quite a few WAWA moments the past couple of days… but in the interest of time, I’m going to offer you some random bits of information in
“My life in bullet points: Volume I”
-It is a sign of superiority to sit with your legs crossed in Cameroon, this has been a surprisingly difficult thing to stop doing
-had Viper for dinner the other night… really good!
-Went to a Presbyterian church service on Sunday, where the “children” (or those under the age of about 21) sit upstairs, and the adults sit downstairs. Lucky me got to stand up by myself in front of the entire congregation of about 500 people when they asked for first time visitors…
-if you invite someone here to do ANYTHING (go grab some food, go to the internet café, go to a soccer game, the movies, etc.) it is assumed that you will pay for both people
-learned that the best time to go to the market is during Cameroon soccer games…it is completely empty (and they are usually absurdly packed)
-on the subject of soccer, Cameroon beat Gabon on Saturday. I could hear from the kitchen every time Cameroon scored, the whole city erupts in noise.
-again, on soccer… we might be going to the Cameroon vs. Gabon game here on Wednesday, unless the US Embassy issues a warning, which they often do. In the words of my Academic Director, “If we lose, there will be a big fight. If we win, there will be a big fight.” Apparently, regardless of the outcome here, the men just brawl after the games.
-I’ve been proposed to 2 times so far. And let me tell you, the first proposal of my life was just how I imagined it, totally romantic…in a dirty cab with bright orange shag seating in Yaounde.. It is the total opposite of the US, the men LOVE to make the first move and be completely forward. The first guy was about 35, dressed very nicely, and promised to “take me to see movie, buy me nice things.’ Lets just say all the girls on the trip have learned how to say “I’m engaged” or “I’m already married.” I’ve been called out on being ring-less… that will be my first African jewelry purchase.
-Cameroonians are really into clean shoes. We have to wash them before going out
-showers here are FREEZING (Ms Doss you are the only one who will really understand…I’m talking Turkey cold here.). I’ve perfected the sub- 2 minute shower.
A little about my family…
I have a younger sister, Ornella, who is amazing and patient, and will be my saving grace during my time with the Tchebe family. She is 16 and amazing at the Soulja Boy dance. My mom does something with law… she is pretty intense. Spent all day Saturday learning how to cook traditional Cameroonian foods…I’ve eaten some pretty funky stuff but also some really amazing food!
Tuesday, September 1, 2009
Cinderella and Beyonce
My new names?
Had orientation today (they started to fill in some of the "unknowns" of the trip...I'm starting to understand why they didn't give us every little detail before we came to Cameroon). The staff is incredibly friendly and fun (and absolutely brilliant). We will be doing lots more traveling than most SIT programs to see all of the diversity that Cameroon has (they tell us it is the most diverse country on the continent between the 200 unique ethnic groups, climate zones, landscapes, wildlife, etc.)
Only have 5 minutes left so let me explain the title of this post. There are 4 Cameroonian students from the University of Yaounde that will be spending most of the semester with us. A large group of us walked down the huge hill from the monestary to go into town...I was in the back with my roomate Kelsey and Fleur (one of the Cameroonian students). Basically, Fleur didn't know we were walking so she was in heels... half way down the hill the 3 of us fell far behind because of the heels/singing American hip hop combonation. I traded my Birks for her heels because I thought I would be able to run in them and catch up to the others. Failed plan. After 30 seconds of shuffling in her Cameroonian heels, we decided to slow down and just enjoy the walk down the hill. In the middle of my "Single Ladies" Beyonce impression, the shoe broke. Not only were we about 3 more miles from town, but there were NO taxis or stores in sight. Ended up each wearing one of my sandals ....finally got a cab to her sister's house to get some new shoes and wash our feet. She is now calling me Beyonce Cinderella, because the shoe broke right in front of the President's "castle," if you will. Fleur was such a champ about it... it was fun meeting her sisters and having this little adventure with her. I'll never forget the french words/pronunciations for shoe, broken, story, rediculous again!
Had orientation today (they started to fill in some of the "unknowns" of the trip...I'm starting to understand why they didn't give us every little detail before we came to Cameroon). The staff is incredibly friendly and fun (and absolutely brilliant). We will be doing lots more traveling than most SIT programs to see all of the diversity that Cameroon has (they tell us it is the most diverse country on the continent between the 200 unique ethnic groups, climate zones, landscapes, wildlife, etc.)
Only have 5 minutes left so let me explain the title of this post. There are 4 Cameroonian students from the University of Yaounde that will be spending most of the semester with us. A large group of us walked down the huge hill from the monestary to go into town...I was in the back with my roomate Kelsey and Fleur (one of the Cameroonian students). Basically, Fleur didn't know we were walking so she was in heels... half way down the hill the 3 of us fell far behind because of the heels/singing American hip hop combonation. I traded my Birks for her heels because I thought I would be able to run in them and catch up to the others. Failed plan. After 30 seconds of shuffling in her Cameroonian heels, we decided to slow down and just enjoy the walk down the hill. In the middle of my "Single Ladies" Beyonce impression, the shoe broke. Not only were we about 3 more miles from town, but there were NO taxis or stores in sight. Ended up each wearing one of my sandals ....finally got a cab to her sister's house to get some new shoes and wash our feet. She is now calling me Beyonce Cinderella, because the shoe broke right in front of the President's "castle," if you will. Fleur was such a champ about it... it was fun meeting her sisters and having this little adventure with her. I'll never forget the french words/pronunciations for shoe, broken, story, rediculous again!
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