-my family has the largest porcelin collection i have ever seen
-despite the 90 degree weather, my whole family rocks matching penguin santa claus hats and cocoon themselves in blankets
-my friend gave a snowglobe with a lighthouse inside as a homestay gift. she did an excellent job explaining what a lighthouse was (projecting enough light to help ships come in from sea), and her family was in total disbelief. they proceeded to go and turn off the lights to see if it actually worked... so classic. the language/cultural differences, no matter how good your french is, somehow always has a way of winning...
-i've mastered the non-chewing technique. lasts nights dinner way a rice and a traditional murky brown/green sauce with silver minnows in it...mmmmmm.
-went for a run this morning and my mom was shocked that i was going out "comme ca?" i guess my kneelength shorts were a little scandelous.
Friday, October 30, 2009
Wednesday, October 28, 2009
Ghetto Locks
I'd like to dedicate this post to the one and only Ghetto Locks, who will be celebrating her 21st birthday here in Ngaoundere with a Coca Light and a bar of chocolate. Party on.
Arrived in Ngaoundere after a 27 hour bus ride from Yaounde (the ultimate "robbie moment" voyage...). Felt like we were on the Oregeon Trail, but Cameroonian addition. Covered Wagons traded for 1980s buses, picking berries traded for Soya and Banannas, however the diseases of cholera, typhoid, dysentary remain the same. Our decisions included ones such as: go left where there is a bridge about 60k away that my no longer exist or go right? a 160 k detour on horrible roads... Made it after 13 hours and spent the night on the border of the Central African Republic.
Day 2 on teh road involved lots of exiting the bus to lighten the load or push when we got stuck in the mud. Luckily we didnt run into any "couper de routes" or road bandits along the way...we would've been the jackpot. They arrested a bunch last night in Ngaoundere...
2 minutes left on the internet!
my life in short:
-ive decided to do my independent research in Buea, a University town at the base of Mt Cameroon, about 15 minutes from the beach. Great location, awesome organization- working with the microfinance branch of NCIG.
-my homestay family is polygamous, but my dads 2nd wife just left him out of jealosy. His dad has 4 wives....we live in a large compound. The family is incredible.
-working on my Fulfulde- crazy language which
Arrived in Ngaoundere after a 27 hour bus ride from Yaounde (the ultimate "robbie moment" voyage...). Felt like we were on the Oregeon Trail, but Cameroonian addition. Covered Wagons traded for 1980s buses, picking berries traded for Soya and Banannas, however the diseases of cholera, typhoid, dysentary remain the same. Our decisions included ones such as: go left where there is a bridge about 60k away that my no longer exist or go right? a 160 k detour on horrible roads... Made it after 13 hours and spent the night on the border of the Central African Republic.
Day 2 on teh road involved lots of exiting the bus to lighten the load or push when we got stuck in the mud. Luckily we didnt run into any "couper de routes" or road bandits along the way...we would've been the jackpot. They arrested a bunch last night in Ngaoundere...
2 minutes left on the internet!
my life in short:
-ive decided to do my independent research in Buea, a University town at the base of Mt Cameroon, about 15 minutes from the beach. Great location, awesome organization- working with the microfinance branch of NCIG.
-my homestay family is polygamous, but my dads 2nd wife just left him out of jealosy. His dad has 4 wives....we live in a large compound. The family is incredible.
-working on my Fulfulde- crazy language which
Friday, October 23, 2009
GO LAURA
At 8 weeks into my Cameroonian experience, it’s time for that “half way high” to kick in (some Welsley cheerers, Gatorade, and Jamiroquai wouldn’t hurt either).
Just had a surreal past few days during our 4 day excursion to Kribi. Before going, I was warned by several people to watch out for the “mamiwatas” or mermaids (Kribi is apparently known to have lots of black magic and sorcery). On our first night, we met some Rastas and had an epic drumming session on the beach. Fleur, one of the 4 Cameroonian students participating on our program, warned me that drumming so close to the water was a bad idea. About an hour later, one of our SIT coordinators came out and told us to stop, because we had no idea what the drummers were chanting and what evil spirits they were conjuring up. These 2 instances just added to the list of intelligent and level headed people who warned us about sorcery-such a crazy and foreign concept to me. Really interesting hearing all of their personal stories about magic… on Fleur’s grandfather’s deathbed, he made her mother swear that she would never bring her children to the village because there was too much black magic (Fleur has never been to this day…).
Hiked 2 miles into the rainforest to visit the Pygmies (the TVS gear absolutely passes the Cameroonian rainforest test Leezo!) Before the visit, we had a lecture by our translator on the Pygmies. The Pipeline Project from Chad to Cameroon implemented by the World Bank a few years ago not only displaced many Pygmies, but also made the prostitution rates skyrockets. Starting around the age of 13, many female Pygmies begin to become prostitute themselves for 50 CFA, or about 15 cents.
[Insert story here that I don’t want my mom to hear until I return safely home…]
On a lighter note, Kelsey and I had our hair “tressed” with “mesch” last night. AKA I am now rocking a weave. It took about 5 hours of tugging and braiding for this fabulous new hair style- I can’t quite figure out what I look like. My best conclusion is that I resemble one of those Bratz Dolls. Dream come true.
I GOT MY BIRTHDAY PACKAGE TODAY! I couldn’t be happier…Tasty Kakes never tasted so tasty. I introduced my sister to microwave popcorn for the first time. My mom came running in when she heard the pops and thought I was breaking the microwave. It was amazing to get to correct her for once (she LOVES correcting me…this morning I learned that I’ve been hanging my clothes on the wrong spot on the line all this time. What was I thinking??) Anyway, they couldn’t believe that it was salty. Apparently all Cameroonian popcorn is sweet and made on the stove.
Originally, we were supposed to leave tomorrow for the North by a train. Unfortunately, it has been derailed one too many times over the past few weeks, so we are now traveling by van. We’ve been informed to wear sneakers and get ready to push the bus, as the roads are apparently horrible. 24 hour bus ride here we come!
Just had a surreal past few days during our 4 day excursion to Kribi. Before going, I was warned by several people to watch out for the “mamiwatas” or mermaids (Kribi is apparently known to have lots of black magic and sorcery). On our first night, we met some Rastas and had an epic drumming session on the beach. Fleur, one of the 4 Cameroonian students participating on our program, warned me that drumming so close to the water was a bad idea. About an hour later, one of our SIT coordinators came out and told us to stop, because we had no idea what the drummers were chanting and what evil spirits they were conjuring up. These 2 instances just added to the list of intelligent and level headed people who warned us about sorcery-such a crazy and foreign concept to me. Really interesting hearing all of their personal stories about magic… on Fleur’s grandfather’s deathbed, he made her mother swear that she would never bring her children to the village because there was too much black magic (Fleur has never been to this day…).
Hiked 2 miles into the rainforest to visit the Pygmies (the TVS gear absolutely passes the Cameroonian rainforest test Leezo!) Before the visit, we had a lecture by our translator on the Pygmies. The Pipeline Project from Chad to Cameroon implemented by the World Bank a few years ago not only displaced many Pygmies, but also made the prostitution rates skyrockets. Starting around the age of 13, many female Pygmies begin to become prostitute themselves for 50 CFA, or about 15 cents.
[Insert story here that I don’t want my mom to hear until I return safely home…]
On a lighter note, Kelsey and I had our hair “tressed” with “mesch” last night. AKA I am now rocking a weave. It took about 5 hours of tugging and braiding for this fabulous new hair style- I can’t quite figure out what I look like. My best conclusion is that I resemble one of those Bratz Dolls. Dream come true.
I GOT MY BIRTHDAY PACKAGE TODAY! I couldn’t be happier…Tasty Kakes never tasted so tasty. I introduced my sister to microwave popcorn for the first time. My mom came running in when she heard the pops and thought I was breaking the microwave. It was amazing to get to correct her for once (she LOVES correcting me…this morning I learned that I’ve been hanging my clothes on the wrong spot on the line all this time. What was I thinking??) Anyway, they couldn’t believe that it was salty. Apparently all Cameroonian popcorn is sweet and made on the stove.
Originally, we were supposed to leave tomorrow for the North by a train. Unfortunately, it has been derailed one too many times over the past few weeks, so we are now traveling by van. We’ve been informed to wear sneakers and get ready to push the bus, as the roads are apparently horrible. 24 hour bus ride here we come!
Wednesday, October 14, 2009
What’s my age again?
Braved the downpour (the rainy season is almost over!) and braved Mokolo (one of the largest markets in Central Africa) and went on a fabric mission with Kelsey and her crazy Maman. Bought some fabric and hung out in the stalls while we waited for the rain to slow down a bit.
After the shopping, the 3 of us, as well as the token creepy uncle, hopped in a taxi to go to the tailor. The first 20 minutes was fine, but we ended up being stuck in the damp, shag seated, gasoline leaking taxi for an hour and a half. It was dark by the time we arrived at the bottom of the street (which the taxi could not make up due to excessive pot holes and mud).
So, “What’s my age again?” There is in fact a story behind this Blink-182 throwback (that I’ve played probably one too many times on this trip to keep my WXPN internship on my resume...) We arrived on the opposite side of Yaounde around 7:00 PM. Picture this: Friday night, 7:00, your at a tailor having a modest skirt and dress made with your friend, her mom, and uncle (and you’ve just turned 21…). Kelsey’s mom informed me that I had to call my mom to give her the heads up I would be coming home late. I got incredibly nervous (my mom is “tres severe” according to the homestay coordinator).
Major 4th grade flashback. My conversation, “Hi Mom, it’s Laura. I’m really sorry but I’m going to be home late…. Here’s Kelsey’s mom.” REALLY? I think I’m in for a reality check when I come back home and have to realize I’m an actual adult (and no longer need permission to get home at 9:30 on a Friday night).
As my friends gallivant throughout Europe, (they just returned from a highly successful rendezvous voyage to Oktoberfest…) I can’t even imagine what their semesters have been like (especially when I spend my weekends nights consist of treating myself to a Mombo Chocolate bar, maybe a ration of my prized Wegman’s Peanut Butter, and Miss Congeniality in French). Almost a month and a half into the trip, I’ve started to become really comfortable in Cameroon. Comfortable enough to brave the 1000 CFA ($2) seats at the Cameroon vs. Togo soccer game on Sunday. I thought I had the full Cameroonian soccer experience when we played Gabon, but this section took it to a new level. It’s the 104 section of the Link, but Cameroonian soccer style. Total madness and by far the greatest sporting event of my life.
After the concert, went to “Petit Pays”… a Cameroonian singer who everyone goes crazy for here. Before we went, our Academic Director informed us that he, “sings about love and sex and homosexuality.” A student, joking, asked, “then why hasn’t he been arrested?” Or A.D, replied in total seriousness, “I have no idea.” It’s times like this when I remember where I am.
I’m happy to report this is the first weekend of my voyage I didn’t watch Miss Congeniality in French! Even though hearing “Gracie Lou Freebush” with a French accent is pretty entertaining, it was a much needed break.
After the shopping, the 3 of us, as well as the token creepy uncle, hopped in a taxi to go to the tailor. The first 20 minutes was fine, but we ended up being stuck in the damp, shag seated, gasoline leaking taxi for an hour and a half. It was dark by the time we arrived at the bottom of the street (which the taxi could not make up due to excessive pot holes and mud).
So, “What’s my age again?” There is in fact a story behind this Blink-182 throwback (that I’ve played probably one too many times on this trip to keep my WXPN internship on my resume...) We arrived on the opposite side of Yaounde around 7:00 PM. Picture this: Friday night, 7:00, your at a tailor having a modest skirt and dress made with your friend, her mom, and uncle (and you’ve just turned 21…). Kelsey’s mom informed me that I had to call my mom to give her the heads up I would be coming home late. I got incredibly nervous (my mom is “tres severe” according to the homestay coordinator).
Major 4th grade flashback. My conversation, “Hi Mom, it’s Laura. I’m really sorry but I’m going to be home late…. Here’s Kelsey’s mom.” REALLY? I think I’m in for a reality check when I come back home and have to realize I’m an actual adult (and no longer need permission to get home at 9:30 on a Friday night).
As my friends gallivant throughout Europe, (they just returned from a highly successful rendezvous voyage to Oktoberfest…) I can’t even imagine what their semesters have been like (especially when I spend my weekends nights consist of treating myself to a Mombo Chocolate bar, maybe a ration of my prized Wegman’s Peanut Butter, and Miss Congeniality in French). Almost a month and a half into the trip, I’ve started to become really comfortable in Cameroon. Comfortable enough to brave the 1000 CFA ($2) seats at the Cameroon vs. Togo soccer game on Sunday. I thought I had the full Cameroonian soccer experience when we played Gabon, but this section took it to a new level. It’s the 104 section of the Link, but Cameroonian soccer style. Total madness and by far the greatest sporting event of my life.
After the concert, went to “Petit Pays”… a Cameroonian singer who everyone goes crazy for here. Before we went, our Academic Director informed us that he, “sings about love and sex and homosexuality.” A student, joking, asked, “then why hasn’t he been arrested?” Or A.D, replied in total seriousness, “I have no idea.” It’s times like this when I remember where I am.
I’m happy to report this is the first weekend of my voyage I didn’t watch Miss Congeniality in French! Even though hearing “Gracie Lou Freebush” with a French accent is pretty entertaining, it was a much needed break.
Monday, October 5, 2009
The Trifecta
Vraiment? What a week it has been.
It all began last Wednesday when we ventured out of Dschang on our little bus of doom. We drove about an hour and a half to a chefferie (a chiefdom) for a completely surreal afternoon.
We entered into this fantasy land through a giant, intricately designed gate with bold blues and deep mahogany wood carvings. Directly in front of us was a massive grass hut surrounded by several true to size wood carvings of lions and warriors. Everything was screaming Disney land, and it took being informed that “the chief’s wives (yes, wives, more to come later…) were currently preparing our lunch” to snap me back into reality and remind me that I wasn’t in Florida. Waited for about an hour where we got destroyed by insects, as the chief himself was currently busy with prayers.
Donning his traditional Bamilike robes (and a Versace watch), the chief welcomed each of us to his Chiefdom. Had lunch with him and found out a little more about life as a chief. He isn’t sure how many wives or children he has, but it is estimated over 20 wives. He was one of over 100 children (and there were tons of kids throughout the chiefdom) so I am assuming he has quite a few as well…
He was friendly and outgoing, and told us about his get togethers with the other chiefs in the surrounding areas to play soccer or basketball. Then he would smoothly transition into a story by pointing to a 20 foot snake skin on the wall and explain how it was eating the leg (and killing) his uncle, and the men had to rip the serpent off him? Like I said, totally surreal.
Right after lunch, had a dance party with the chief with some incredible live music.
QUE: Symbolic rain and lightning (and thunder in my stomach).
Sorry if this gets too graphic here, but it is too good of a story to not share. Broke away from the group and tried to speedily find my way to the bathroom through the maze of 4 foot doors and outdoor, walled corridors (this place was unbelievable). Didn’t quite make it and ended up getting sick on the chief’s lawn. Way to go Laura. And to make it even better, one of the men who was serving us during lunch totally saw me, and with a horrified look on his face, gave me an umbrella and ushered me to the bathroom.
Downhill spiral from there. Went to the hospital that night, where we banged on the gate for 10 minutes before a nurse finally came. Found out there was no doctor in … The next 2 days were a pretty fascinating lesson in Cameroonian public health.
Went back in the morning where I was diagnosed with Malaria, Typhoid Fever (I thought that only existed in Oregon Trail?), and some other bacterial stomach thing that I can’t even come close to pronouncing. Happy 21st Birthday to me! Spent the next 2 days in the hospital…paid some extra cash for the private room (kerosene lamp and bucket of rain water for washing/flushing the toilet included…). Throughout most of the hospital, not running water or electricity- my night-time nurse had worked there for over 25 years and said that it was very rare to have the two. There are 2 doctors in the entire hospital who are never around. The place is basically run by 3 people: the nurse, the pharmacist (who also quiet often doubles as a nurse), and the cleaner. I could go on and on about the conditions of the hospital, but I think I’ve already scared mom and dad enough!
My amazing family from Dschang came and visited me on my birthday. My dad, the self proclaimed cordon-bleu, made me the best pound cake in the world (especially after eating only Digestif biscuits for 4 days… I never want to see those things again).
Thank you for all of the birthday and well wishes!
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